![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.overlandrover-westafrica.net\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/05\/Original-Dash1.jpg\" "\\"Original")
<\/a>Original dash, with basic oval panel for rear wiper switch and accessory plug visible. Note ventilator levers and vents under the upper dash<\/p><\/div>\n
Our ideas for upgrading the dash range from creating and installing attractive hardwood “glove-box” doors that would hinge from the flat bottom lip of the dash to close under the top dash.\u00c2\u00a0 This would add some visual ascetic appeal as it would\u00c2\u00a0 conceal the open area.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The downside is that these cover the vents that are designed to allow air to flow in (or, as James May of\u00c2\u00a0 Top Gear jibed “just in case it isn’t noisy enough inside already”), but this is not such a concern when we have air conditioning.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 I have even purchased some mail-order hinges from a cabinetry shop in Canada (Lee Valley) that may work for the this, finding the hardwood here that is thin enough is proving to be more of a challenge.<\/p>\n
However none of this addresses the problem of how to mount a radio.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 This vehicle must have had a radio, the wires are still there, as are two now-defunct 6 1\/2 inch speakers mounted in the ceiling panels above the front doors on either side, but there is no evidence of where the radio might have been mounted.\u00c2\u00a0 There are no holes that suggest there might have been a radio housing screwed in somewhere.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 However, none of this addresses the problem of how to mount a radio\/CD player.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 No holes remain visible in any part of the dash that suggest screws were once mounted there.<\/p>\n
We opted to get a console from MUDSTUFF,\u00c2\u00a0 www.mudstuff.co.uk\/index.shtml , a company in England that produces a range of\u00c2\u00a0 aftermarket accessories designed for Land Rovers.\u00c2\u00a0 The console is simply a plastic form that comes with a metal mounting frame and installation instructions.\u00c2\u00a0 The user can choose whether they want to use the console to mount switches, meters, a radio, and the precise location of each.\u00c2\u00a0 I ordered the console, a radio mount, an additional plug-in for AC power and some switches for lights and other accessories.<\/p>\n
Installation was not terribly difficult, although\u00c2\u00a0 it took longer than it would have if I had access to the tools I have storaed in Canada.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 I did bring a set of basic hand tools with me, which I have supplemented with a ratchet set that I purchased here.\u00c2\u00a0 I am getting good use of all these, but I do not have any power tools.\u00c2\u00a0 I had brought a set of light Black and Decker battery-operated tools,\u00c2\u00a0 but the charger is not working here and it is only possible to get very light work done before the batteries expire.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 To install the console it is necessary to remove a section of the dash that requires cutting through a foot long section of metal.\u00c2\u00a0 Getting the tool to do this proved to be the most difficult and time-consuming part of the project.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Original switch panel removed and dash marked for cut-out<\/p><\/div>\n
I asked around to see who might have an electric hacksaw and ended up dealing with James, who is a contractor to the property management team at the High Commission where I work.\u00c2\u00a0 James came by and quickly determined that a hacksaw was not going to do the job and we went off together last\u00c2\u00a0 Saturday morning to a metal shop that had a “grinder”. \u00c2\u00a0 This is a fairly heavy duty rotary tool that can be mounted with a range of different 4″\u00c2\u00a0 blades.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 It was noisy, messy job that took about 20 minutes and GHC 15 ($10), with another GHC 20 for James as fixer,\u00c2\u00a0 a role which in addition to getting me to the grinder included some other drilling work in the console panel itself that he did with his own electric drill.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Dash cut out and console mounting frame installed. Note the A\/C unit has been temporarily removed<\/p><\/div>\n
At this point there is a bit of a sick feeling because all you have is a big gash in the dash and the panel that held the lighter and rear windshield washer switch is gone. \u00c2\u00a0 From there is was more satisfying.\u00c2\u00a0 The metal mounting plates for the console screwed into the area between the vent levers without difficulty.\u00c2\u00a0 The vehicle has a plastic trim piece that runs along the top of the bottom front lip of the dash catch area that has to be cut.\u00c2\u00a0 I had to stop in the middle of the installation to go up to Opere’s to borrow a simple hacksaw blade to cut the trim because I don’t have one of those either.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 It took five minutes to do the\u00c2\u00a0 cutting but almost an hour to get there and back.\u00c2\u00a0 I really miss my tools.<\/p>\n
The biggest challenge was adapting the console and the air conditioning unit.\u00c2\u00a0 Distribution of A\/C in a Defender, at least in ours, consists of a 2-3″ high channel that screws snugly along the flat bottom of the dash.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 The MUDSTUFF console has a wide plastic flange e that is designed to slip between the A\/C unit and the dash, which helps to establish a firm footing for the console.\u00c2\u00a0 Unfortunately, I had recently had my A\/C unit remounted complete with a screw right in the area where the flange has to go, which prevented the console base piece from slipping in.\u00c2\u00a0 The amount of time I had to spend unmounting and remounting the A\/C unit before I realized all I really had to do was cut the flange was incredible.<\/p>\n
<\/a>Console front with cut-out marks for switches and radio; original wiper switch and 12V accessory have been installed.<\/p><\/div>\n
Cutting the holes in the console required some precision, and again the lack of tools was a pain.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 I could mark out the places for the radio, the switch plates, and the AC power converters (cigarette lighters), but cutting them out was more difficult.\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 I was able to coax enough power from my B&D battery operated drill to cut round holes in the corners of the square holes for the radio and switch plates, but had to get James cut the lines to complete the job.\u00c2\u00a0 With that I was able to mount everything into the console and install it.\u00c2\u00a0 It is only a temporary placement of course ,\u00c2\u00a0 we don’t have speakers yet for the radio, or light to hook onto the switches yet, but the unit can be easily removed with three screws to get at the backs of the switches and the radio casing to complete the hook-ups.<\/p>\n